Every fashion season ends up being a palatecleanser. If Fall Winter signals the comeback of statement feathers and shine-on sequins, then Spring Summer makes way for sleek minimalism and refined silhouettes or viceversa. The last five fashion weeks which include couture, ready-to-wear, resort and pre-fall, have seen designers and luxury conglomerates leaving no stone unturned to appeal to the Millennials and Gen Z, who are reportedly driving luxury sales.
While a few seasons ago, there was a push in the luxury space to embrace logo-less products and toning down the brand mentions, fashion today seems to be moving towards a scenario of ‘If you’ve got it, flaunt it’. Hence, most design houses have gone back to their rich archives and brought back their key insignia, and re-presented them with an of-the-moment flourish. Also, the new season has heralded the introduction of new logos.
The new-age Burberry under the talented Riccardo Tisci has introduced ‘T’ in the British label’s emblem (an homage to its founder Thomas Burberry), and the French heritage house Balmain, under its social media star designer Olivier Rousteing, has reimagined their symbol.
Logo frenzy has been the mainstay over the past few seasons and its escalating popularity shows no signs of fading out. An offshoot of the grunge 90s, the logo craze has reached new heights with design houses like Fendi, Gucci and Balenciaga warming up to it like never before. From T-shirts emblazoned with brands’ letterings, to sneakers printed with it all over – they make for chic travel companions.
Over the last few seasons, Vetements — the cutting edge, street-inflected label has been a recurring presence in my closet. Its dynamic designer Demna Gvasalia (who is also the force behind the revival of Balenciaga) has defined and refined street style, and made tracksuits unimaginably uber-chic. Currently, I’m digging their twin-set casuals and ripped denims.
Also worth mentioning is the ever so subtle Lanvin — a label which too couldn’t resist the all-encompassing allure of the logo madness. The design house has succumbed and plastered the label name all over their silk dresses and playsuits.
Gucci, under the aegis of maverick minstrel Alessandro Michele, has always been at the forefront of developing a new design vocabulary. The Italian brand playfully spelled out their name as ‘Guccy’ (as in teddy) on jumpers and T-shirts, which became a rage on Instagram. Fendi’s offerings, like their mink zipper vests and varsity jackets, come unapologetically embossed with bold FF.
A classic label like Max Mara’s runway too had sling bags echoing the label’s letterings, and Moschino’s jumper dresses come kissed with the brand name. Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior brought back the ‘J’adior’ from their rich archive-showcased coats and feminist T-shirts with the brand’s name printed on it.
Every brand that promoted a discreet no logo look has not only joined the trending logo mania, but even created logos to partake in the frenzy… the best example being Valentino with their 80’s revived logo VLTN. Ask any fashion observer the logic behind logos’ resurgence, and they’re likely to say that these pieces spark off an immediate connect with the brand.
While it’s one thing to stay on trend, blindly aping the runway and catalogues isn’t smart. It’s all about striking the right balance, between style and comfort, structure and fluidity, form and function, neutrals and metallics, separates and accessories. Also, each piece you don should reflect your personal style, but be warned that mixing logos will create a ‘fashion police’ alert.
Sriram Raghavan had an idea similar to Danny Boyle’s Yesterday twelve years ago!
Andhadhun director Sriram Raghavan recalls the idea he had twelve years ago which was similar to Slumdog Millionaire director Danny Boyle’s new film Yesterday. The film had a RD Burman connection. Read to find out…
KAL KYA HOGA KISKO PATA…
A Reader’s Digest joke said Mixed Emotions is watching your mother in law go over a cliff, in your brand new car. A few days back, the first trailer of Danny Boyle’s Yesterday came out and within minutes, was the talk of the town. Everyone was WhatsApping it to each other. What a great, fantastic premise and so on. The basic idea is Jack, a struggling musician, who wakes up one day, after an accident, and finds he’s in a world where no one remembers the Beatles. They don’t exist. But Jack remembers all their songs… and naturally, everyone around him loves what Jack is singing.
He plagiarises the Beatles and is soon on a route of super success. Until…. Of course, the trailer doesn’t reveal much more, so we got to wait till July, when the film releases. Hmmm. Very exciting premise and yes, I too am totally looking forward to watching this first-day-first-show. Only, I feel like a comedian. Because I had a very similar idea some twelve years ago. In my story, it wasn’t the Beatles, but RD Burman.
My story was this. Dhruv, a doctor in a general hospital is depressed. It’s his 40th birthday and he feels he’s generally missed the bus in life. He’s single, not thrilled with his job or himself, and wishes he’d pursued his dreams as a kid and become a musician. Of course, like a thousand others, he succumbed to parental pressure and is stuck in a job he has no passion for. His guitar lies in a dusty cover, under the bed.
That night, whilst doing the hospital rounds, he sees a crippled patient trying to jump off the third floor and kill himself. Dhruv rushes to save him and during the struggle, loses his balance and ends up plummeting to the floor. He is rushed to emergency and is fast losing consciousness.
The next morning he wakes up and finds he’s in a parallel universe, where everyone is a different avatar of themselves. A zapped Dhruv also discovers that by a quirk of fate, RD Burman was never born in this universe. Nobody has heard of Pancham or his tunes. Of course, Dhruv starts plundering RD’s trove of songs and sounds, and within a few months becomes a super successful musician and composer…a rockstar! He falls in love with a girl who totally adores his work….and today he plans to propose to her…. he wonders whether to tell her the truth, and whether she’d even believe it. Armed with a bottle of champagne and a diamond ring, he crosses the road to greet her, when a speeding car hits him.
He wakes up in the ICU of his old hospital. He is told he was in a coma for six months….and the doctors played RD Burman music hoping that it would help….because they knew Dhruv loved the music. It was meant to be a love story, a musical and a science-fiction tale all in one. We had great fun making lists of RD songs we’d use and so on….but the third act of the script kept eluding us.
I and my co writers tried various versions of the story but I was somehow never satisfied. So we put it aside and went into other movies. And occasionally opened that file to see if a brainwave strikes. All that was yesterday. I love Richard Curtis and Danny Boyle’s work so am totally looking forward to the film.
Sometimes, you work on an idea and then find someone else has already made it. I had read Ira Levin’s A Kiss Before Dying and loved the book. I wrote a script and excitedly narrated the story to Tinnu Anand who told me that they were making Baazigar, which was based on the same story. You can imagine how tough it was for me to watch Baazigar at Anupam, Goregaon East, in a housefull show, and the guy next to me jumping up and down his seat in excitement.
These little heartaches are part of the game. And sometimes it’s good to wait. Many years back, director Neil Jordan was stuck on a script. It was a good story with strong elements, but something was eluding him. He knew something was missing but he didn’t know what. Exasperated, he put it aside and moved on to other work. And then, TEN YEARS LATER, out of the blue, he got a brainwave. An idea that was the vital key to the story. The brainwave is a huge Spoiler so I wont reveal it here. But it was a twist that changes the story on it’s head…. The film was THE CRYING GAME (1992) and it won the Oscar for Best Screenplay. Kal kya hoga kisko pata, (KASME VAADE) Music: RD Burman.
Mahesh Bhatt: In Indian cinema, only bad people have sex, good people fall in love!
Renowned filmmaker Mahesh Bhatt writes about portrayal of women, sex and relationships in Hindi cinema as he recalls his first film Manzilein Aur Bhi Hai and hails Imtiaz Ali and Alia Bhatt’s Highway.
In the year 1973, I made a film called Manzilein Aur Bhi Hai, which was banned by the Central Board of Film Certification. “You are subverting the sacred institution of marriage,” said the outraged Regional Officer, looking at me as if I was a despicable human being who actually needed to be erased from existence. “It’s people like you who bring disrepute to Bollywood…” he said without batting an eyelid. With an air of finality he said, “This film will never see the light of the day.”
I was 21 and Manzilein Aur Bhi Hai was my first directorial endeavour. To see your dreams go up in flames is one hell of an experience. Though heart-broken and defeated, I reached out to the elders of my own fraternity who were in those days advised by the Ministry of Information and Broadcasting to set up the film industry’s self- censorship body. This body consisted of stalwarts like G P Sippy, Atmaa Ram and a few eminent editors of film magazines. To my horror, even they, on viewing the film, found it unfit for public consumption.
“We will not represent your case to the ministry,” said Mr G P Sippy. “How can you make a film which portrays a woman in such a bad light?” he asked, looking genuinely perturbed. Manzilein Aur Bhi Hai was a simple tale of two jailbirds and a prostitute on the run, and their open sexual relationship. What was so offensive about the morality of the film was something I couldn’t fathom then. “If sex is right with one person, it’s right with another! And if sex is right after marriage, then it is right before marriage too. Isn’t it all about a woman’s choice? Can’t she love both the men?” I asked, locking horns with my seniors. My question infuriated them and they showed me the door.
As I walked home battered and bruised and scarred by my own seniors, raging fiercely against the world and bogus moral postures they take in the arts, it struck me that in Indian cinema, only bad people have sex. Good people only fall in love. That was 1973, but may I ask, has anything changed ever since? Alas! No. In fact, the more things change, the more they remain the same. The changes that we proclaim to ourselves and to the world are only cosmetic, like winds on the surface of an ocean, creating ripples. But deep inside the ocean, everything remains the same.
Through trial and error I’ve learned that unless you endorse, defend and perpetuate the old value systems, which are tied like a dog to a post, you will not get mass acceptance. And since we are in the business of mass entertainment, the old archaic values which may be withering in our day-to-day life continue to find expression on the silver screen. What we like to see on the screen is not our real self but the fairy-tale idea of ourselves. There are films like Highway which have dared to shine the torch in the dark spaces of our own homes, where those who pontificate about these moral values actually, secretly violate them.
Imtiaz Ali and Alia Bhatt deserve a standing ovation for daring to look unflinchingly into the eyes of reality. But then, Highway was an alternate film, not a mainstream popular money-spinner. When I joined the movies, my father, who had made more than 100 films which entertained the masses of India, told me, “Son, we are in the illusion-making business, not the reality-capturing business. People do not want truth, they want varnished truths, and we filmmakers provide just that. In fact, we, through our movies, give the people what God doesn’t give them. We comfort them with lies, lies, and bigger lies. That’s the mantra of show business.”
The Crown, Killing Eve, Big Little Lies: 6 webseries that you cannot miss if you are a woman
Abhishek Srivastava picks six webseries that proves women have taken lead in the OTT space!
The world of OTT content is a different beast altogether. It does not differentiate between content based on gender, as one normally witnesses in the world of cinema. To put it plainly, it’s a fair ground. In fact, 2018 will be remembered as the year when female-led content superseded its male counterparts. With powerhouse performers like Meryl Streep and Frances McDormand expected to join the party, 2019 is surely going to be one helluva ride. Abhishek Srivastava picks six series which clearly show that women have successfully taken the lead.
# The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel
Set in New York of 1958, this series is about a housewife who takes the unconventional decision of becoming a stand-up comedian. With a performance devoid of any false note, Rachel Brosnahan as Miriam Maisel left competition far behind. Two back-to-back Golden Globe awards in 2018 and 2019 are testimony to the appeal of the series. Apart from a story which keeps one invested, it, in a subtle manner, also talked about women’s emancipation. The crisp, witty dialogues of Amy Sherman Palladino (of Gilmore Girls fame), and the charm of Rachel Brosnahan proved to be a winning combination for this Amazon drama. This is also one of the few series which maintained a constant momentum in both its seasons. It never dipped for a moment, a miracle indeed!
# The Crown
The mega success of The Crown, the biographical story of Queen Elizabeth II, rests largely on the histrionics of Claire Foy. In the role of young Elizabeth, she delivered a performance that took the world by storm. It also made her an instant star for sinking her teeth into the character. John Lithgow as Winston Churchill and Matt Smith as Prince Philip occupied magazine space for their riveting performances. But none could match the euphoria which Claire Foy generated. With Olivia Colman, Helena Bonham Carter, and Gillian Anderson slated to join season three and four of the most talked about series, one can only expect sparks from The Crown in the future. It is a classic example of what women are capable of achieving with their combined might.
# The Handmaid’s Tale
This dystopian drama, based on the 1985 novel of Margaret Atwood, was an instant sensation. It single-handedly changed the fortunes of Hulu network, the home of The Handmaid’s Tale. Elisabeth Moss as June Osborne, a handmaid to a commander and his wife, gave a tour de force performance. With some great performances in Mad Men and The West Wing in the past, Elisabeth Moss was always considered a bonafide actress. But the success of The Handmaid’s Tale put her on a pedestal, which even the actress had never imagined. The success of the series and Elisabeth Moss’ performance became synonymous with each other.
# Killing Eve
BBC’s Killing Eve became an overnight sensation. And the credit for the same goes to three women – Phoebe Waller-Bridge for her screenplay, actresses Sandra Oh and Jodie Comer. The cat-and-mouse game, played between MI 5 officer Eve Polastri (Sandra Oh) and assassin Villanelle (Jodie Comer) for 10 episodes, made the series a binge affair. The two protagonists remain at the core throughout the story. And helped bring out all the possible emotions that humans can emote. The ‘tough woman with a heart’ act of Sandra Oh, besides fetching her a Golden Globe, also helped her garner immense love.
Insecure came out of nowhere and proved to be a revelation. The series, from the viewpoint of two black women, deals with modern America’s contemporary issues. It show issues that most black women have to deal with namely relationships, racism, sex-lives and cultural conflicts. It was instant fame and success for Issa Rae and Yvonne Orji, the two protagonists of the show. Through comic situations and raunchy affairs, they together poked fun at themselves and society. For twenty-something black women, Insecure proved to be revolutionary and also added another feather in the crowded cap of HBO.
# Big Little Lies
The success of season one of Big Little Lies can be gauged by the fact that Meryl Streep will appear in the second season of the show. Needless to say, expectations have simply sky-rocketed. The series is based on the book of the same name by Australian author Liane Moriarty. The first season was fronted by the joint might of Nicole Kidman, Reese Witherspoon and Shailene Woodley. And it dealt with their emotionally troubled lives. The eight Emmy Awards it won out of its 16 nominations say a lot about the series.
Which is your favourite of the lot? Share with us your thoughts in the comments section below! Also stay tuned to CineBlitz for more Bollywood news, updates and gossip.
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